A 'devil' of a brewery

Sitting in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains within shouting distance of Wintergreen Resort and boasting a rustic wooden interior decorated with an assortment of mounted animals, Devils Backbone Brewing Co. easily could be mistaken for a ski lodge.

That is, until you notice the numerous beer-making medals sitting in frames along the wall.

“Our beer is what sets us apart,” said floor manager Chad Williams.

Since opening in November 2008, Devils Backbone has won more awards than any other Virginia brewery. It claimed the highest honor of the 2010 Brewers Association World Beer Cup in Chicago when it was named Champion Brewery and Brewmaster of the Small Brewpub category.

While the World Beer Cup is the “Olympics” of beer competitions, Devils Backbone also has garnered a total of nine awards from the Great American Beer Festival in Denver, the most of any brewery in the state.

Head brewer Jason Oliver keeps suds drinkers flocking to Devils Backbone with the Gold Leaf Lager, a two-time Great American Beer Festival winner that Williams called the brewery’s most popular and most approachable choice.

There are 11 beers on tap, four of which are year-round, six seasonal and an additional “mystery beer.” The Blue Ridge Hop Revival is brewed from Virginia-grown hops and is the current mystery beer.

Although its beer may own all of the accolades, the food at Devils Backbone also has built a good reputation.

Williams oversees the restaurant operations, and he noted that anything off the smoker is a hit with customers, particularly ribs. The menu changes about three times a year, but one entrée that is sure to stick around is Rob’s Bonedipper, a smoked beef brisket sandwich that is one of Devils Backbone’s most popular dishes.

Add what the establishment sees as impeccable service, and it’s no surprise that Devils Backbone has established a formula for success.

“We’ve done very, very well,” Williams said. “It’s a great place, and everyone that works here really cares, and our service has always been a big thing that drives us. When you have a staff that truly cares about their job, it brings a lot to the table.”

Steve Crandall was inspired to open a brewpub after a trip to Europe. Crandall also owns the home-building company Tectonics II Ltd., and according to Williams, he wanted to give his brewpub a “hunting lodge vibe” like many of the homes that Tectonics constructs.

All of the wood and metal used in the construction of Devils Backbone was recovered from other sources, as the company makes a point to be as green as possible through the use of a windmill and on-demand water heaters.

The name “Devils Backbone” comes from the nickname of a treacherous ridge given by Thomas Jefferson’s father, Peter, who was part of the group that first surveyed the Blue Ridge Mountains.